Repost Camber..

[ice]

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Morning Chaps [img]/smile.gif[/img] <!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->I havent posted a problem for a while so i thought i would Right ive managed to get the new springs on and they haven’t coiled [img]/smile.gif[/img] yippee also the back doesn’t look like its cambering so bad now although the ride height is slightly higher which isn’t a problem, but the fronts [img]/sad.gif[/img] Passenger side still has positive camber even after changing the top mounts. The positive doesn’t look as bad as it did before mind you but i still need to get it sorted ASAP.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->
<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->In previous posts measuring was mentioned but where do i measure to and from? So far I have changed the following on the fronts:<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->1) Track Rod Ends<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->2) ARB Links<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->3) Wishbones<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->4) Top Mounts<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->5) Silver plates that go under the bonnet for the top mounts.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->6) Shocks and springs<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->None of which look bent in anyway shape or form, also they don’t look new as they where both very rusty the badge.<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Any help as always is much appreciated [img]/smile.gif[/img]<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->Stu<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

<!--coloro:black--><span style="color:black"><!--/coloro-->PS: Just needing a good clean and polish and im ready for PVS i think [img]/smile.gif[/img]<!--colorc--></span><!--/colorc-->

[Stupink]

measuring was purely for comparison.. Either the top of the strutt is further out than it should be for some reason, the bottom is further in than it shoudl be for some reason, orthe strutt itself is bent. if you can measure the top and bottom distances somehow and compare to the other side, or another cally that will give a good idea which.
It would be fairly simple to measure the strutt top seperation for a starter, measure the centre of the strutt top to the centre of the other strutt top with the wheels pointing straight, then a few of us can measure ours to compare.
I still think its more likely to be the bottom bend in, or the strutt itslef a bit bend. but without going out and having a good nose (its raining) i cant think of any suitable measuring points for that, if you do some and maybe som pics to show where its measured, i'll get the equivalent measurements off mine for you.

[ice]

ill try and get some pics done later like i say its not as bad as it looks but i know there is a slight problem lol and it will p155 me off lol

[BlackKnight]

well, considering what you have replaced, you're left with three possibilities IMO: bent subframe, bent strut, bent chassis.. :/

[ice]

all of which are seriously thick and would be very hard to bend, if i was to bend one of these surely the thinner wishbone would have also bent..

THe chassie i think is fine as all the panel line up with no problems. IM thinking more towards the bent strut but not really sure [img]/sad.gif[/img]

[BlackKnight]

well id bet on the strut too.. unless the whole car has been in a previous crash and was badly repaired or something.. dunno the history..

[ice]

the hpi come up with no problems, ive had a bodyshop check over the car and the only panel to have been replaced/ repaired was the drivers rear. If the car had been in an accident surely the panels wouldnt line up, maybe i should get it up on a jig just to be sure, if the chassie is bent ( Which i dont think it is ) then unfortunately the car will be broken for parts as im not gong to start replacing more parts

[BlackKnight]

well, try the strut :/ the subframe can be easily checked for bends.
i think balljoints(i think thats what you call them) could have an effect on camber too right?
you can always order a k-mac front camber/castor kit [img]/smile.gif[/img]

[ice]

you got any details on this k-mac kit?

[ice]

Drivers Side Wheel ( Negative Camber )


Passenger Wheel Front Side


Passenger Wheel Front Top


Passenger Wheel Front

[BlackKnight]

<!--QuoteBegin-ice+--><div class='quotetop'>(ice)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->you got any details on this k-mac kit?<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

yah.. <a href="http://www.k-mac.com" target="_blank">http://www.k-mac.com</a> find the front camber kit for the calibra.. k-mac is in australia but they ship worldwide as it says on the site, you really do receive your kit in about 10 days.
basicly its the top strut mount that allows you to move it around as you like - change camber and castor.

i think cav16 used to or still does distribute their kits you so you can try and order from them or something.

i ordered mine directly from k-mac and waiting for it. talked to them over the phone - they seem nice [img]/smile.gif[/img]
i ordered it just to increase castor on both wheels, nothing dramatic.
price is perhaps a bit steep - 465 $US + 35 $US shipment.. but the kit seems really high quality.

[ice]

mmm but if i did that i wouldnt be fixing the problem just hiding it [img]/sad.gif[/img]

[BlackKnight]

i know :/

well, change the struts then i guess :/

[ice]

finding a cheap 1 that is straight will be a problem [img]/sad.gif[/img]

[Stupink]

not being funny, but jack it up and take the wheel off. you shoudl be able to see if it is bent or not. compare it to the other side if you're unsure how it should look. they are symetrical. strut wouldnt be hard to come by, people scrap the things all the time and strutts arnt exactly hot items, its not like you can use the full turbo set for 5stud conversions as you need v6 rears. check for movement as well before you remove the wheel, to make sure its not the shock thats wobbly and just sitting wrong or whatever.