Wtf?? Help!!!
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Wtf?? Help!!!
Before someone says it, <!--sizeo:4--><span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><!--/sizeo-->I ALREADY CHECKED THE FUSES! [img]/laugh.gif[/img]<!--sizec--></span><!--/sizec-->
Last night I drove into the office to pick up a paper I needed, I was going to be quick so I left the car running. Come back out about 10 mins later, and the missus said the radio stopped working for no reason.
I looked at the clocks and the fuel and temp gauges were not reading properly either, reading just above the needle, the battery light was on, but not as bright as it is when I would normally turn the key. The handbrake light is really dim too. And the rear defrost doesn't work either.
I go to start it back up this morning, and the rev counter is dead too, but after a minute or so it works fine. I also noticed that the warning lights to not come on when I first start the car, to include the battery light and parking brake light. Then, at the same time the rev counter starts working again, the battery light comes back on! :confused: I haven't had the chance to put a multimeter on it to see if it's still charging properly, but it appears to be fine, the lights are all bright and stong (well as bright as Calibra headlights get, [img]/laugh.gif[/img])
I'm lost, electrical troubleshooting is not one of my strong points, somebody please help!!!
Last night I drove into the office to pick up a paper I needed, I was going to be quick so I left the car running. Come back out about 10 mins later, and the missus said the radio stopped working for no reason.
I looked at the clocks and the fuel and temp gauges were not reading properly either, reading just above the needle, the battery light was on, but not as bright as it is when I would normally turn the key. The handbrake light is really dim too. And the rear defrost doesn't work either.
I go to start it back up this morning, and the rev counter is dead too, but after a minute or so it works fine. I also noticed that the warning lights to not come on when I first start the car, to include the battery light and parking brake light. Then, at the same time the rev counter starts working again, the battery light comes back on! :confused: I haven't had the chance to put a multimeter on it to see if it's still charging properly, but it appears to be fine, the lights are all bright and stong (well as bright as Calibra headlights get, [img]/laugh.gif[/img])
I'm lost, electrical troubleshooting is not one of my strong points, somebody please help!!!
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King Calibra
<!--QuoteBegin-Mong0L+--><div class='quotetop'>(Mong0L)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->it sounds to me like a loose earth, sorry i cant be of much more help as im not to sure where they are all are on a calibra, yet.<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I had the same thought, but I'm totally lost as to where to even start looking!
I had the same thought, but I'm totally lost as to where to even start looking!
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King Calibra
<!--QuoteBegin-Stupink+--><div class='quotetop'>(Stupink)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteEBegin-->I would check the charging status first, dodgy alternators can cause all sorts of funny symptons including dash lights going loopy etc. once you've verified that then you know you're not wasting your time searching around all the wiring [img]/smile.gif[/img]<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
That's the answer I was looking for, mate. I hope it's just the alternator and nothing shorted out!
Also, I forgot to add that the radio fickers on and off periodically...
If this problem is was the alternator, wouldn't the car have died by now? I didn't think a car could run on battery power for 2 days, as I drive it alot!
That's the answer I was looking for, mate. I hope it's just the alternator and nothing shorted out!

Also, I forgot to add that the radio fickers on and off periodically...
If this problem is was the alternator, wouldn't the car have died by now? I didn't think a car could run on battery power for 2 days, as I drive it alot!
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King Calibra
i had that when my alternator was giving 18v and burning the battery, the car wasnt happy at all, air bag lights on and off, radio going on off, door locks popping open and shut, sometimes wouldnt drive without kangarooing as well,
new battery sorted mine for a few days!
new alternator fixed it, with another battery as well as 2-3 days had destroyed the other
new battery sorted mine for a few days!
new alternator fixed it, with another battery as well as 2-3 days had destroyed the other
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ROG
how to test ya alternator with a standard multimeter
As Stu says, i'd go for alternator first, I had the rectifier (black thing fastened to back of alternator) go on a Cav i used to have, which sent it mad, and buggered the battery [img]/sad.gif[/img] . You say you have a multimeter, try this.....
1. clean a patch both end of the battery earth with some 'wet n dry'
2. set you multimeter to read mV (millivolts) and measure across the earth lead (yeap across the wire but you need 1 lead to be about 15cm from battery)
3. with car off and nothing switch on you should read about 0mV
4. now switch on the headlights and fogs and you will get a reading
depending on which way you have the leads it will be + or -, it don't matter, the value is important, let's say it's +15mV this means that taking about 30A (drain from headlghts etc) out of the battery causes this voltage drop.
5. now turn off the lights and start the engine and keep it a fast idle (1500rpm ish) and measure again......(same points it's important)
Now if 30A out causes +15mV across your measuring points, 30A in (charge from your alternator) will give you -15mV across the same wire....
If you only get a little reading eg -5mV the alternator's going bye bye, if you get a reading more than what you got first time (but in reverse) alternators OK [img]/smile.gif[/img]
let me know how you get on, i'm off to fined my intermittent missfire.....
//Andy
1. clean a patch both end of the battery earth with some 'wet n dry'
2. set you multimeter to read mV (millivolts) and measure across the earth lead (yeap across the wire but you need 1 lead to be about 15cm from battery)
3. with car off and nothing switch on you should read about 0mV
4. now switch on the headlights and fogs and you will get a reading
depending on which way you have the leads it will be + or -, it don't matter, the value is important, let's say it's +15mV this means that taking about 30A (drain from headlghts etc) out of the battery causes this voltage drop.
5. now turn off the lights and start the engine and keep it a fast idle (1500rpm ish) and measure again......(same points it's important)
Now if 30A out causes +15mV across your measuring points, 30A in (charge from your alternator) will give you -15mV across the same wire....
If you only get a little reading eg -5mV the alternator's going bye bye, if you get a reading more than what you got first time (but in reverse) alternators OK [img]/smile.gif[/img]
let me know how you get on, i'm off to fined my intermittent missfire.....
//Andy
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Andy SE9 V6
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